Similar to many other essential oils, it has antimicrobialproperties too. We have seen extracts with only 4% glabridin as well as 40% glabridin. As for cosmetics, the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) concluded that the amount of BHT used in cosmetic products is low (usually around 0.01-0.1%), it does notpenetrate skin far enough to be absorbed into the bloodstream and it is safeto use in cosmetics. Contains fragrant components (linalyl acetate - 50% and linalool - 35%) and might be cytotoxic from 0.25%. It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives. It also has some localpain relieving and muscle relaxing magical powers. To make things even worse, lavender oil seems to be cytotoxic from concentrations as low as 0.25% (concentration up to 0.125% wereok). It has proven antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anticarcinogenic properties. If you are looking for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat. We have to start by writing how fascinated we are by the amazing lavender fields of Provance and we do love pretty much everything about lavender: its look, its color,its scent. but, when it comes to skincare, lavender is aquestionable ingredient that you probably do not want in your skincare products. It's used as a foam building cleansing agent. Its main component (83-97%) is limonene, the super common fragrant ingredient. The essential oil coming from the peel of the bergamot orange. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. This Truth in Aging article details the situation and also writes that all these studies examine BHT when taken orally. Oh, and one more thing: glabridin seems to be also an antioxidant, which is just one more reason to be happy about licorice root extract on an ingredient list. And that is still not all: it can also boost the antimicrobial activity of preservatives. Its mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. An error has occurred. Rose essential oil - a super expensive oil with a lovely scent. It has also anti-bacterial, astringent and toning properties. An amino-acidbased cleansing agent that is described as extremelymild and having outstanding foamability. Also, we (humans :)) love rose oil. The essential oil coming from the rind of the lemon that we make (or should make) lemonade from. In general, there are two problems with citrus peel oils: first, they are essentially the fragrant component, limonene in disguise (they are about 85-98% limonene). Bottom line: Licorice is a great skincare ingredient with significant depigmenting, anti-inflammatory and even some antioxidant properties. Anna Webber/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images, How often should you use charcoal skincare, Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask. Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. An ester coming from sorbitol and the fatty acids of olive oil. Its a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. The most active part is called glabridin. Another pro is that lavender oil has some nice antimicrobial and antibacterial properties. BGs main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. You might know licorice as a sweet treat from your childhood, but it's actually a legume that grows around the Mediterranean Sea,the Middle East, central and southern Russia. Listen to your skin, people! It's a very alkaline stuff that helps to set the pH of the cosmetic formula to be just right. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. Konjac Charcoal Sponge, $15, 100 Percent Pure. Glabridin has also some soothing properties but the main active anti-inflammatory component is glycyrrhizin. This was the year when using dried lavender flowers in pillows, wardrobes, and elsewhere became fashionable in Japan, so it seems that increased exposure to lavenderresults in increased risk of sensitivity. Or you could always try the ingredient out with a single nose strip to see if you like it. According to Beverly Hills dermatologist and founder of SKINxFIVE, Dr. Ava Shamban, you shouldn't necessarily use it every single day. A cleansing agent whose main thing is adding viscosity and foam to cleansing formulas. There is just one catch regarding glabridin and licorice: the amount of glabridin in commercial licorice extracts can vary a lot. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. It's used as a foam building cleansing agent. Chamomileprobably needs no introduction as it's one of the most widely used medicinal herbs. So the good things: thanks to its wonderful scent the high-end perfume industry loves rose oil. "If your skin looks dry, flakey, or irritated, you're using the product too much," Dr. Shamban says. It's sweet and yellow and not only used for licorice all sorts but it's also a skincare superstar thanks to two magic properties: Nr. A 14 carbon length fatty acid that can be naturally found innutmeg,palm kernel oil, coconut oil and butter fat. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! A phototoxic reaction is a not nice one causing red,edematous lesions on the affected area. It has such a wonderful scent that there are no comparable synthetic alternatives. The latter one is a very-very expensive ingredient, so if you are after the depigmenting properties try to choose a product that boasts its high-quality licorice extract. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. :). It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. There are fads for everything from clothing to beauty products, but charcoal skincare seems to be here to stay. Bottom line? It contains lots of chemicals, including flavonoids,phenolic acids, and diterpenes. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Thanks. There are even skincare tools that incorporate the ingredient. Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask, $24, Amazon. Sephora Collection Charcoal Nose Strips, $3, S ephora. Its main active is rosmarinic acid, a potent antioxidant, andanti-inflammatory. You can probably guess that this means rose essential oil is expensive. very very expensive. Though chamomile is usually a goodie for the skin, it's also not uncommon to have anallergic reaction to it. Biore Self Heating One Minute Mask, $6, Amazon. On top of that chamomile also has some antioxidant activity (thanks to some other active ingredients called matricine, apigenin and luteolin). Nowadays, furanocoumarin-free versions of bergamot oil are also available and more and more common, and they usually go by the INCI name Bergamot Fruit Oil. Plenty of studies tried to examine if it's a carcinogen or not. Be happy if it's on the ingredient list. Rosemary leaf extract - Its main active is rosmarinic acid, a potent antioxidant, andanti-inflammatory. Glam Glow Supermud Clearing Treatment, $56, Amazon. 1 magic property is that it has skin-lightening or to say it another way depigmenting properties. It can also reduce the harshness and leftover of strongersurfactants such as SLS or fatty acid soaps. Green Tea - one of the most researched natural ingredients that contains the superstar actives called catechins. Good old water, aka H2O. It contains the terpenoids chamazulene and bisabolol both of which show great anti-inflammatory action in animal studies. Overall, it makes us sad to write bad things about such a lovely plant, but when it comes to skincare, you will be better off without lavender. Fragrant compounds smell nice but are common allergens and can be a problem for sensitive skin types. An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. An ester coming from sorbitol and the fatty acids of olive oil. "Do not use daily as it can soak up the natural oils and moisture in your skin.". We love its scent so much that it can heal headaches, depression, stress, and even grief. It contains nice smelling fragrant components and also phototoxic compounds. Inhaled volatile compounds seemto have a soothing effect on the central nervous system and studies have shown that lavender aromatherapy canimprove patient's anxiety and experience in hospitals. All in all, licorice is considered to be one of the safest skin lightening agents with the fewest side effects. It's the acronym for Butylated Hydroxy Toluene. The bigger problem with bergamot oil though, is that it also contains furanocoumarins (more specifically,bergapten and bergamottin) that have well-documented phototoxic effects. However, being a monoethanolamine instead of diethanolamine has the advantagethat thenitrosamine-concern does not apply for Cocamide MEA. Please try again later! It's a commonsynthetic antioxidant that's used as a preservative.There is some controversy around BHT. Bergamot Essential Oil;Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil, Rose Geranium Essential Oil;Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Lavender Essential Oil;Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Damask Rose Flower Oil;Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Skullcap Root Extract;Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Licorice Root;Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, German Chamomile Flower Extract;Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract. There is some controversy around BHT. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) First, let us start with the pros: it has a lovely scent, so no wonder that it is popular as a fragrance ingredientin natural products wanting to be free from synthetic fragrances but still wanting to smell nice. The topical application (meaning when you put it on your face) of 0.5% glabridin was shown to inhibit UVB caused pigmentation of guinea pigs. Chemically speaking, it is the little sister of Cocamide DEA and has similar properties to that guy. Out of the 95 compounds, the major ones are citronellol and geraniol,fragrant components that might irritate sensitive skin. Lavender - essential oil with a calming scent and antimicrobial properties. (The main components of the flower essential oil are linalyl acetate and linalool [around 80% the two together] while it is 1,8-Cineole [around 65%] in the essential oil of the leaves.). This one treatment has a mixture of both black and white charcoal, plus it just looks really cool in the jar. Lemon peel contains a medium amountof them, more than sweet orangebut less than bergamot. According to the pros, you should listen to your skin. Second, they containthe problematic compounds called furanocoumarins that makethem mildly phototoxic. Be carefulwith it especially if it is in a product for daytime use. 2022 BDG Media, Inc. All rights reserved. We have more info on Olivem 1000 at Cetearyl Olivate >>. There are tons of different products out there that use the ingredient, but it turns out that you might be overusing it. The most common skincare ingredient of all. It makes your skin feel nice and smooth (emollient), gives body to cream type products and helps to stabilize water and oilmixes (aka emulsions). It's a very alkaline stuff that helps to set the pH of the cosmetic formula to be just right. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning its the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. A real oldie but a goodie. Paula Begoun writes that it can be a bit drying to the skin. A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumesin watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. Charcoal Pore Pudding Intense Wash-Off Treatment, $38, Sephora. There is also an often cited Japanese study that made patch tests with lavender oil for 9 years and found a huge increase in lavender oil sensitivity in 1997 (from 1.1% in 1990 to 8.7% in 1997 and 13.9% in 1998). Super common little helper ingredient thathelps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Rose oil contains more than 95 compounds, among them flavonoids, anthocyanins, vitamin C, and quercetin that are all known for their medicinal properties and great antioxidant effects. Now, let us look at the cons: similar to a bunch of other essential oils, the main components of lavender oilare potentially irritating fragrant components. Charcoal isn't just for your face either. A traditional Chinese herbal medicineloaded with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory flavonoids such as baicalin, baicalein,and wogonin.If that would not be enough, Skullcap Rootis also claimed to have antimicrobial and antifungal properties (also againstP.acnes and Malassezia furfur) as well. It turns out that there are simple ways to find out if you're using the ingredient too much. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. Lavender oil is also often claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties. A 14 carbon length fatty acid that can be naturally found innutmeg,palm kernel oil, coconut oil and butter fat.