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I found this post and the resulting comments (particularly Amy's piece) extremely helpful. Simple tips for using your home sewing machine to sew knit fabrics. i finally tried Pellon Stick-N-Tear Sew-In Stabilizer. Or is it meant only to stablize the fabric from the seam to the outer cut edge?Thanks for clarification, forgive me as i hope to add to the discussion rather than use up space. Glad stay tape works for you! I also keep a box of interfacing offcuts and use them when I can. Many sewing patterns for knit tops suggest that you stabilize your shoulder seams using clear elastic or knit stay tape so the shoulders don't get stretched out of shape. this is a really helpful post - thanks for sharing. Please note, comments must be approved before they are published, Copyright 2022 Pattern FantastiqueWebsite template by Shopify. I've learnt so much :). I need to learn a lot more about the different options out there though, especially with interfacing.This may be dumb question- but how do you stabilize wool crepe before you cut it? Stay up to date on the latest product releases, special offers & news by signing up for our newsletter. Thanks for this amazingly coincidental and very useful explanation-I was just looking around the web at stay tapes yesterday and trying to understand why, when, and where to use them. Place a press cloth over the work. Here we have used the blind hem foot as a stitch guide, it's not necessarybut if you are sewing metres it does help with lapses of concentration. Another reinforcement option is stay tape. It also goes bad if you don't keep it sealed up. Hillary:I don't know for sure, but given what I've read by Kenneth King, I'd imagine that you'd treat the two pieces as one, pinning, then hand basting the stabilizer to the wool crepe fashion fabric, then chalking the pattern over the two and then cutting.He suggests a similar method for handling underlining, I believe. Then either serge or use a zig zag stitch to attach your elastic to the seam allowance. I used Seams Great to cover the fraying edges of my corduroy skirt but does it really stabilize anything? But what if you could kill two birds with one stone and stabilize your knit shoulders while also using up small fabric scraps from your other projects? Otherwise it will thicken the seam allowance making it harder to press flat. she'll look great in it. If not adjust the sewing machine tension to make it balanced. Ok I'm amazed no one has mentioned it yet (especially since Burda magazine is NUTS for the stuff), but Vilene bias tape is just plain AWESOME. have never seen the tape at my local sewing place. its beautiful, although i haven't washed it yet. A tip that might make this easier is to sew the seam on the interfacing befor cutting it. I feel like I'd distort more trying to do that! And often interfaced as well.Stretchy knitwear as we think of it didn't really appear until the early 1970s.I love the stabilizing tapes. Place a length of 1/2-inch-wide woven stay tape, fusible side down, along both shoulders. I've been a lurker of your projects on the CSC collective facebook page, and stumbled across this whilst searching for a solution to stabilize a rayon spandex maxi dress. Use a light, knit or bias cut woveninterfacing,it needs to stretch. 4. But it is easy enough to make and you can alter the width, tape and thread weight, according to your needs. 4. It is so much easier than say 25 years ago when you had to attend a training seminar at the local extension office or check a book out of the library. If you serge or otherwise finish the seam allowances together, you can press them to the back with the stabilizer flat, not folded. Glad you like the trick! I bought Seams Great, but the instructions don't actually tell how to use the product. Also, Ann Person (the founder of Stretch 'N Sew) had a similar book (also out of print), "The Stretch and Sew Guide to Sewing on Knits." I, myself, never have. Trace & hand-baste bits of whatever you'd use on there? Some of my mail order sources are the Sewing Workshop and the Sewing Place. 5. ; Sewing tips and techniques, This website uses cookies. Learn how to attach metal rivets here. Rivets are added on all points of great strain. Using the selvage edge is a fab idea. Thanks! If you want to use it as a finisher, I would do it similar to the bias tape finish: https://www.professorpincushion.com/professorpincushion/bias-tape-finish/. Like Amy, I use clear elastic on knits. Using arotary cutter makes this heaps easier.). 2. https://www.professorpincushion.com/professorpincushion/bias-tape-finish/. I am confused, what is the difference between stay tape and vilene bias tape?? But reminded me I have mountains still to learn about sewing! This type of Did you know that most regular sewing machines have a special overlock stitch that mimics a serger's stitch? It certainly sheds light on why some of my sewing from the past has failed, I'm thinking gape-y necklines in particular Great post - I just bought some stay tapes myself and was going to try them out. Happy sewing! Congratulations, you are signed up to our newsletter. You really don't want your shoulder seams stretching out.And if you are looking for someone to do a blog post on sewing knit tops, I nominate Gigi of Gigi Sews! Watch this video to see how Chelsea reinforces shoulder seams using these simple supplies. Note: for my method, I put the selvage strip on the front bodice piece and press the shoulder seam to the back. Clip the remaining elastic from each side. First and foremost some general advice for stronger seams . Stabilizing is one of the topics that makes me aware of how huge the gulf is between the industry and home sewers -- Kathleen at Fashion Incubator has a lot to say about interfacing and how mystifying it can be to home sewing folks.Of course, it doesn't help that most of this stuff is unobtainable in the UK and that when it does exist it's usually called by a totally different name. Thanks for the tip!! Run the tape along the sewing lines of the pattern piece, like a measuring tape. Thanks! I assume he thinks it's very susceptible to distortion.I don't understand why anyone would engage in something as time-consuming and demanding as sewing without trying to do it as professionally as possible, especially if you're learning as an adult. Selvage is so pretty it's a good way to use it, and it's awesome for finishing neck seams on cardigans and knit jackets. HiI purchased the aoelian tee pattern a few weeks ago and really love it. If not adjust the, Double interlocked seam which is zigzagged on both sides, Bar tack stitches are meant as reinforcement stitches on areas you are expecting wear and tear. I am a beginning sewer, having made only 4 items so far, and I bought Dritz Stay Tape today, because I am having a problem with the edges of a bias-cut open-backed dress stretching. Clear elastic, stay tape, ribbom, or twill tape. 25" long for each sidd Those ripped stitches, when it is unexpected is really distressing. There is definetly a lack of info out there about using these types of notions, Another one of those simple things that can make a huge difference to end result and wear and tear of our garments, but we forget about or dismiss because we dont know what the hell they are or what we do with it! The best solution to this issue is prevention and a great resource to have on hand is twill tape. You have NO idea how long I've been wondering what bias tape is supposed to do. Um I could kiss you! Thank you for the inspired tutorial. Please explain. so i trimmed a strip using the handy pre-print grid, stuck it to the inside seam edge, and serged it. Gertie, thanks for that post! Learn three pattern hacks for the Piedra dress, by Anna Aguirre. Anyway, thanks. it is primarily for embroidery (i guess?) It may be 3 years since you posted this blog entry, but it is still helping seamstresses improve their skills. Brilliant! This is a very interesting topic and makes me realise how little I really know about sewing! I then add 3 to 5 rows of elastic thresd to gather the tapered front end of armrest repeat for the back. Winding Ways, you sew the tape inside the seam line *within the seam allowance*. 10" long for back end She was complaining about it in her forum. Wow that was so informative! amazing sewing stitching techniques and samples thanks. Gigi of Gigi sews once posted a great tip about making your own fusible stay tape by cutting up interfacing, which seems like a great idea. Clear elastic is a great option to use for reinforcement at the shoulder seams. Sewing With Knits Project Guide. Metal rivets are another great way to reinforce a seam you must have seen them on jeans the most sturdiest of all clothes. I also use stay tape. * Steam from ironing can be enough to warp super delicate fabrics. The only reason I haven't bought it is because of the price. I worked in a fabric store for three years and I don't think I ever sold a single package of seam tape. One title of her book is "It's Easy to Sew Knit and Stretch Fabric". Otherwise you can serge or zigzag it on. Here's a tip if you don't have stay tape you can use a piece of twill tape or even ribbon to reinforce your shoulder seams. Comment down below and let us know. now, having a perfect guide, turned over once, pressed and used a ric rack stitch sewn from the inside rather than a top stitch which prevented the front/neck from stretching. Rivets are added on all points of great strain. Exactly how I feel about clear elastic- hate sewing it, hate wearing it. Great idea! Sign up for eletters today and get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers from Threads magazine. I just used it for my Blackwood cardigan and it worked a treat :). This really is an issue that separates the women from the girls! But I'm not sure even she would have ventured into the sewing mysteries that you share with us readers. Cotton organdy is also used for this it is a less expensive and equally effective option. The zig-zag stitch will give some elasticity to the seam. Thanks for this! You can make more than one stitch on the seam line for making sure that the stitching will hold. Kathleen at Fashion Incubator doesn't think much of the book you discussed. Lauriana:It would be impossible for me to teach myself tailoring, but here are some good tailoring books, sites, and sources for tailoring materials:http://www.amazon.com/Tailoring-Classic-Sewing-Perfect-Jacket/dp/1589232305/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_bhttp://www.amazon.com/Classic-Tailoring-Techniques-Construction-Collection/dp/0870054317http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Tailoring-Techniques-Construction-Collection/dp/087005435X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1276613129&sr=1-1Tailored Jacket by Kenneth Kinghttp://www.kennethdking.com/httpwww.kennethdking.combook3.html#jackethttp://vintagesewing.info/index.htmlhttp://englishcut.com/http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/http://cutterandtailor.com/google44de170f05bb1cb0.html/Welcome.htmlhttp://www.steinlaufandstoller.com/http://www.greenberg-hammer.com/http://store.atlantathread.com/. Ug, hate sewing and wearing clear elastic. Place 1/2-inch-wide fusible woven stay tape along the front shoulder seamlines. Mostlyused for necklines, armholes and shoulder seams, stay tape is so useful. I haven't tried this method on a waistline; only on shoulders. I have sewn a fair amount with knits - so here are a few bits some may find useful:A piece of clear eleastic or 1/4 inch regular elastic used in the same manner as stay tape in the shoulders can help that area a lot. Place the selvage strip right side up on on the wrong side of the shoulder seam of the front bodice pattern piece. I really don't like the feel of the clear elastic, either! I definitely feel good about using those little bits of selvage up!I've never actually tried knit stay tape- I wouldn't have known how to ask for it in Thailand! If you use thick needle for fine fabrics your fabric will have holes and this weakens the seam. It seemed way too flexible and stretchy to do that. Thank you for this post! Keep the rows 2-3mm from one edge. Learn, 100+ [FREE] Dress Sewing Patterns for kids. Older Post I don't use fusible for fear of scorching my fingers- too small to fiddle with. Ive been makin Professional Sewing Techniques for Fashion Designers, Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers. I usually use light weight fusible stay tape, but this is a great idea. The stabilized front then stabilizes the back. Probably because there really isn't a lot of info about what it does or how to use it correctly. I am so glad I have been reading your blog so I can refer back to it. I do use clear elastic sometimes, but once I got my hands on a roll of knit stay tape I started using that. Thank you! I'm using horsehair braid for the first time and I'm enamored. Sew in place (you can interlock the edges or zig-zag stitch as well). I am still confused. You can buy stay tapepre-made. Yuck!I hope you use and like this technique! Just like the clear elastic, you'll want to cut a length of stay tape that is a little longer than the length of the seam allowance you want to reinforce. I've found that if I put the selvage (or twill tape or clear elastic) on the back side, then it's too bulky to press the seam allowance over it. Fitting your Celestial Dress plus FBA & dart construction. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. Hi Gertie! ALWAYS thrifty in my sewing room! The pattern I am working on calls for it, but I have never heard of it before. Editors note: This is the second of a six-part article about stay tapes, based on the feature Stay Tape Know-how by Pamela Leggett, Threads #215 (Fall 2021). Thanks to the wrong headline I searched the whole internet, if there are meanings of french seam or french binding that I didn't know yet. Finding information and instruction, you tube videos etc really has made a plethora of information available. I'm a little ashamed . thanks gertie :-D. I use stay tapes pretty regularly - I buy a cheap white or black woven tape. Subscribe to our mailing list and get interesting stuff and updates to your email inbox. You can make your own fusible stay tape by cutting strips from your leftover bits of fusing - you often only need short lengths, and can choose if you want straight or bias!I regularly use a lightweight fusible knit interfacing on my knits (not really stretchy knits though) for facings or reinforcing elsewhere. Seems like a money saver alsoGREAT TIP!!!!! Today I've got a tutorial for you on how to stabilize knit shoulder seams with strips of woven or knit selvage! Thank you x10000. Thanks! It's true! lol! Sewing is a challenge and I admire your willingness to dive right into the murky land of sewing geekdom for us home sewers. I hate the feel of clear elastic, when it suddenly showed up in RTW tee-shirts everywhere I complained up a storm. Sew rows of straight stitching down the lengths. Cut to length. You can read more on bar tack stitches here. Use appropriate needle for the fabric. It doesn't bust a ton of scraps since the pieces are so small, but it certainly saves a few and saves you buying a specialty notion! Thank you.Trudywww.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com. a lot ashamed. For more expert advice from Pamela about applying stay tapes, continue to the articles other sections: Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content. I have used regular no-stretch stay tape in the shoulders and found that while the rest of the garment feels good the shoulders move off the shoulder line because they don't flex and stretch like the rest of the garment, which is not such a good look, nor is it comfortable.Elastic used as stay tape can also help droopy armholes. I never, ever stay stitch anymore - I fuse that stuff on necklines, shoulder areas, anywhere it needs it. I love discovering little techniques like this to help improve my sewing. And now we have some reinforced shoulder seams. Let the work cool. Join Seamwork. Sign in or become an insider to access this story. I've often seen this on my vintage patterns (either as a pattern piece or in the instructions) so thank you for the big explanation and the comments as well sewing friends!When I start to feel professional I'll get into this for sure, I like the idea of saving off cuts from other fabrics and interfacing pieces rather than buying new. Bring the raw edges of the seam allowance to the inside. But I'm curious to hear how it goes if you try it! Our example is shown on a neckline area and also in a shoulder seam, but you can definitely use twill tape in other situations as well. This makes me a little sad. Nice post! I don't know if I do it right or not, but it always seems to work out. Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox. Thanks so much! Cheap brands often use fairly mundane fusibles although sometimes types of those in places where a home seamstress wouldn't expect them. This works with all kinds of knits, including lycra.Firm knits used the same way as wovens (such as in Gertie's purple dress) would require similar stabilizers as wovens, but with perhaps a bit of flex - so a bias stay tape instead of a twill tape, and tricot interfacing instead of woven. most recently, my search was for an alternative to McCall's 6694 instruction to use bias tape on the open front, neck edge and sleeves since reading (i need to begin taking notes for proper references, my bad) somewhere that this is an outdated technique which i fully bought given my own experience. i never see it in RTW and it is too bulky for LW knits. I hope this method works for you! I myself thought it was very good when I went through it at Barnes and Noble. You can read more on, Metal rivets are another great way to reinforce a seam you must have seen them on jeans the most sturdiest of all clothes. Cut the interfacing into long strips as long as possible 8mm to 12mm wide. The stuff from Fashion Sewing Supply is really lightweight and a lot easier to sew than the elastic from JoAnn, and I found an Ebay seller with even better clear elastic last year, though I'd have to look it up. It is usually placed on the back of the seam but you can attach it to the front as well. I've recently started exploring the idea of using notions like that more often in my own sewing, to help create a more professional-looking garment and improve the lay/drape of curved edges. You may have better luck, but this is what works for me. I recently tried using stay tape on the neckline darts of this Burda jersey blouse: http://bit.ly/cogH7Q If I make the blouse again I will use 3/8" clear elastic, as I've seen it used as stabilizer in RTW jersey garments. Thanks for the pattern! By continuing to use this website you are giving consent to cookies being used. Thanks for sharing your method. I think the placement is still confusing. This is SUCH a better alternative. Guess it'll be trial and error. On many tops, depending on how much topstitching it has, I will also press the shoulder seams to the back and top stitch. But given her greater experience, I didn't want to argue with her, especially online, under my real name. Make a feminine petal sleeve using a basic sleeve, by Devon Iott. Knitwear really started to come in with the 1960s as synthetics were developed, but were still highly structured--think double knit without much stretch. I often use stable knits, but they are similar to wovens in technique. Place it inside the fabric edge, depending on the width of the seam allowance. Yes! So glad to hear it worked for you! I've never tried the fusible stay tape! This is such a simple idea but great ! What a great idea to use up selvedge 'scraps' lovely clear tutorial, thank you :). You can also use fusible tricot interfacing cut in strips, which is also a good way to use scraps. Fabulous! Ha, I wasn't suggesting anyone keep all of his or her selvages; that would be excessive. Just serge or zigzag it onto the Thanks! I hadnt heard of stay tape before and will definitely be making some to use when I make the grandchildren funky tee shirts. It's OK on fleece and active wear, but I cut it out of everything else I buy. I've been working on a ver Heres a topic that gets a lot of discussion, but I think the info bears repeating: ease in patterns. Love reading about the things you've learned in school! I'm only just straying into seam stabilizing myself although I have been known to 'sculpt' jackets and coats using a fusible interfacing meant specifically for wool fabrics. You can add a strip of fabric inside the seam allowance, before sewing it in a welt seam for reinforcing a seam; organza fabric is a good choice for this it is very strong without being bulky. What do you use/what do you do? Part Two of the Gathered Skirt Tutorial, The Magic of Horsehair Braid (A Little Tutorial). Create your own comfortable, stylish clothing in stretchy fabrics. Some stay tapes are fusible so you can iron it on, aligning the stay tape with the raw edge of the shoulder seam allowance. Make This Skirt! Bar tack stitches are meant as reinforcement stitches on areas you are expecting wear and tear. I've just started reading your blog in the last couple of months. but i pay attention, i care and do a lot of internet searching. Become a member and get unlimited site access, including the Anjeanette. I think it is centered over the sewing line, but you sew it down just inside the seam allowance side. (I have a friend that's learning to sew and it's hard enough to get her to press her seams while sewing!) Preshrink and iron the material while it is wet before using it for this purpose. Thanks again! I still think about trying to do it the old-fashioned way one day, but I wouldn't know where to start looking for the materials. Uses scraps but much softer -thanks . my bff is about to receive a production of M6694 in a lightweight rayon spandex knit (red). Caseyblog | elegantmusings.com. Baste the selvage strip to the front bodice piece (or skip straight to Step 4 if you're confident!). I get mine from SewEssential.co.uk and I know they ship quite happily to the USA, too (because apparently this stuff is rather hard to find in the States). I would like to add, however, that the really fussy stuff is only found in seriously high-end garments. If you sewed it on the garment side, the stitches would show.The reason I didn't post about knits is that being focused on styles of the 50s, I just don't sew with them. Visit our Cookie Policy. Nancy K:Some good NYC sources for fusibles include:Greenberg and Hammerhttp://www.greenberg-hammer.com/andSteinlauf and Stollerhttp://www.steinlaufandstoller.com/Neither is open over the weekend. Use the same color thread as the fabric. I bought some stay tape a little while ago but haven't got around to working out how/where to use it yet. Sometimes the blatantly obvious needs pointing out. Related posts : 21 Different types of seams ; Different types of enclosed seams; 17 Different types of edge finishes. No stretching out here! Thanks for sharing your information. Line up the raw edge of the selvage piece with the raw edge of the shoulder. Arrange the front shoulders. Basically it stabilises seams, stopping knits and curved, woven, seams from stretching. I understand that the tape should be placed so that the tape is caught in the seam when facings are joined to garment. Continue to Use Stay Tape to Stabilize a Foldover Neckline Finish. I was so happy to see your post so that I could see what Stay Tapes are. Luckily, it's easy to do just that 2. You'll have a little excess of elastic on each side of the shoulder. Thanks for this but how do i finish the neckline with the twill tape? Copyright Sarina @ sewguide.com All rights reserved. I sew close to the inner side of seam all around. Yes, tutorial! I am currently working on a dress pattern that requires stay tape for the seams of the skirt section (cut on the bias). Start your sewing adventure with us. Use a fine zigzag stitch to sew this from the right side parallel to the seam. How many rows do you suggest? Ensure that the tension of the stitches are correctly set There should be a fine balance between top and bottom threads ; check that the stitching is looking the same on both sides of the fabric. Do you need to apply the stay tape to both pieces of fabric (meaning the two pieces you are sewing together) or just one?What if you are using a serger to finish the seam allowances? I also had trouble with the Moneta waistline! We do not share or sell your information. Thanks for sharing! I still have a few of them that were my mom's. After sewing your shoulder seams and finishing the seam allowance in your chosen method, place the clear elastic onto the back seam allowance and pin. Turn the seam allowance to one side. We use this for The Aeolian Tee / Dress neckline, The Celestial Dress neckline and armholes for the super light fabrics and The Terra Pant, waist seam and front pocket opening. Great post & great tips- sewing more loosely-woven lawns and so forth this spring/summer, stay tape has become my best friend! I know this is beyond your area of knowledge. Thank you for the explanation, but I think the headline should be "How to Stabilize a Shoulder Seam". With a dry iron* press tape with the stitched linelanding just next to the garments' seam line (a guesstimation is fine). xo Gertie. It's amazing what a simple piece of tape will do to help stabilize a curved edge! 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. My Bernina h Sunday, I posted the first part of this tutorial (see it here ), which showed you how to draft a simple pattern for the blue skirt above, Have you ever used this stuff before? In addition, Singer has had books on sewing with knits over the years. It has an almost matte surface so it doesn't slip. I am so enjoying it. I learned a lot by reading this post and the comments. Tissue paper is cheap, but can leave little bits of tissue in the seam that wash away after a while. for the front end, I took my peltex template and placed on my knit fabric